Xinomavro
is the noblest red grape variety of northern Greece.
A quite robust and productive variety forming average-sized
bunches of conical, or even aliform, shape. The bunch is dense
and the grapes are of average size, spherical, with a thick
blue-black skin but colorless juice. In cooler (mountainous)
areas like Amyndeon, where there is a small yield per vine,
Xinomavro is capable of offering rich red wines, full, high
in alcohol content, with good color, and enough tannins to assist
in a lengthy aging.
Profile
of the variety
Looking
at the color one can ascertain that the red wines made from
Xinomavro have a pleasant ruby and somewhat purplish color.
The younger wines have iodine tinges and are primarily plum-colored,
shifting towards a brick-red color as they age. They offer a
complex nose, dominated by spices, red fruits and tomato in
various forms; ketchup, sweet tomato, fresh tomato- especially
present in younger wines. The aged wines acquire more hints
of spice as well as animal (leather) aromas. In the mouth Xinomavro
can offer wines with medium to full body. Their acidity, combined
with the strong tannins, shows that these wines often necessitate
aging before consumption. Wines made from Xinomavro are smoothed
by aging, while remaining robust.
Xinomavro
in the Press
From
Decanter february 2005 issue: Andrew
Jefford writes: I can think of no grape anywhere in the world
(though Carignan and Nebbiolo come close) which produces good
and sometimes profound wines of such striking unmodernity. Like
conversations in a Henry James novel, they hesitate, they suggest,
they prefigure and insinuate, but never insist. There is an
outline of fruited warmth in the aroma, there is an undertow
of fruited strength in the flavour. Definitely a delicious astringency,
but also a delicate astringency, just enough to clean the palate
and hurry the food along. Naturally articulated, at all times;
bitter-edged, like life. Europe in a glass. Homer's wine.
From
Decanter september 2004 issue: Xinomavro
the distinctive red grape of northern Greece, typically shows
flavours of red fruit, black olive and tomato, and is likened
to Nebbiolo by many. 'Xinomavro has the most fantastic nose',
says Mary Pateras from Eclectic Wines (UK) 'and is funky, new
and interesting. I think in time it will become a top-class
grape'. Nico Manessis 'It's certainly the most interesting red
grape in Greece, and has standout personality', it reminds me
of the Piedmontese Nebiolo's from the 1970's'.
From
the World Atlas of Wine (Hugh Johnson,
Jancis Robinson): Northern Greece is the area with perhaps the
most unrealised potential. This is red wine country, dominated
by one variety: Xinomavro, whose wines are some of the most
impressive of Greece. With age the best-made wines can acquire
a bouquet as haunting as all but the finest Barolo, although
many wineries here in the north are still poorly equipped. Amyndeo
is so cool that it can produce aromatic whites, a denominated
rose and fine sparkling wine.